The vast majority of aquarium creatures die in the first few days. This is called the new tank syndrome, and as in the rest of the world, most of the fish in our country dies in the first few days, which causes the people who start the hobby to cool down. Not only beginners but also experienced hobbyists lose a lot of fish for this reason because nature laws are equally effective for the hobbyists’ aquariums as well as the aquariums of experienced hobbyists.
Although the name of the new tank syndrome is translated into “new tank syndrome” in English, it means that when the first reading is made, the creatures died from the flood. In fact, the underlying cause of death is ammonia or nitrite poisoning caused by problems in the biological cycle of the aquarium. Ammonia is a weak base, it increases the pH in the body, blocks the enzymes that produce energy, and leads to death as the amount increases. We humans and other mammals are more dangerous because it is dangerous to travel in our blood, which is a metabolic waste, as we turn a less harmful urea, because we do not constantly emit ammonia-like water because we live on land and it is not easy to reach the water all the time. Birds that do not get much water for their body turn urine less harmful uric acid so they can breathe with less water, so they stay light and carry plenty of water. This cycle work, of course, costs a lot of energy, but it is more profitable to translate because the cost is lower than the cost of continuous water for us and the cost of flying more water for birds. There is no water problem as we can guess in the fishes, so they do not pay the cost of making the cycle in the body and leave the bodies with gills from the bodies of the gills. This causes the accumulation of ammonia in the aquarium over time and the fish poisoning in their own piss. Nitrogen is converted into ammonia, nitrite and nitrite in the oxygenated portion of the nitrogen cycle. This task is doing the nitrogen bacteria living in the oxygen environment. It is very important to recognize these bacteria, to understand the rationale in the cycle of the aquarium. Nitrosmona bacteria and nitrite nitrase convert Nitrobacter germs into bacteria that have an ammonia-nitrite effect, and these bacteria have a pH and temperature range that are alive and preferred as fish. Ammonia is also poisonous for them, too much ammonia, chlorine is added to the fountain waters to kill bacteria in the water killing these bacteria.
New Tank Syndrome And Nitrogen Cycle
Let’s not forget that we look at these creatures and we need to keep them alive because we can look at our fish in the range of 0.6 – 4 microns and seen with the naked eye. Bacteria like fish are also put in aquariums. Nitrogen bacteria are not free floating in water, they are bacteria colonizing the surface, so we need to get the substrate materials (such as Seachem Matrix, biological sponge or Sera Siporax) that they can colonize and filter them. It is important to keep the bacterium in the least amount of bacteria, even if it is sandy or even in glass, which is why it is much better to put the substrate on it, because the bacteria in a small amount in the sand will not be sufficient to deal with the pollution that many fish produce. The most preferred way to add bacteria after placing the substrate is to buy and add from the culture of bacteria for aquariums, to take a portion of the biological sponge or substrate of a second-run aquarium and mix it with a zero substrate. The risk of this method is that it may also cause parasites and disease-causing bacteria in another aquarium, so do not buy a substrate from the aquarium you do not trust. The last way is to wait before doing anything. Even without bacteria, aquarium nitrogen bacteria come in. Nitrogen bacteria are found in abundance even in the soil, but their reproduction is very slow. These bacteria are autotrophs, ie living things that produce their own food. They produce this nutrient using ammonia and nitrite. Consumer E. coli bacteria, in other words, multiply the number of colonies every 20 minutes, while the time for nitrogen bacteria is 15-20 hours. In other words, one colibacillary bacterium has more than 32,000 titles in 5 hours, while one of the two nitrobacteria still can not be 2 because most of the time devotes to working wildly, that is, consuming ammonia or nitrite. Let’s look at what we need to do in the light of this information.
We must bring plenty of bacteria in the first setup.
You can buy it from another aquarium as you can bring it with the substrate. Bacterial cultures are sold in liquid form or together with sand. Bacterial sand concept first entered the aquarium world as a marine aquarium product with the Caribsea brand name, and is also used in a sweetened fresh water Dennerle’s FB1 Substrate Start named product. When I build a new aquarium, I prefer to buy bacteria culture if I do not have aquarium ready. If I have an aquarium, I take the new substrate and mix the new substrate with the substrate in my aquariums that I know is not a long-suffering disease, put the half of the mixture in its old condition and put it back in good order.
We must wait for these bacteria to come to an adequate level.
The work does not end with the addition of the bacteria. We should not wait for them to settle in our aquarium and work there and do business. For this, we need to make ammonia and nitrate measurements regularly. The general misconception on this subject is to just leave work and wait. These bacteria autotroph produce their own food, using ammonia and nitrite in doing so. Whatever the light of the plant, these bacteria are ammonia and nitrite. For this reason, in an aquarium that does not have ammonia-forming organisms like fish, there will be a small number of bacteria to wait for a year, but it will be at a level where micro-consumers in that aquarium can turn the ammo produced by that aquarium, a long-awaited empty or 1-2 small fishy aquarium, experienced. What is very important here is to lift the system slowly to the foot. When you first set up an aquarium, a small number of bacteriums available can process 1 unit of ammonia per day, and if you supply 1 unit of ammonia per day to that aquarium, the number of bacteria remains constant. Ammonia can be added directly from the outside as a liquid, either directly to the feed or to the end of the fish being fed. The most natural one is fish, but these fish must be chosen to be resistant to amoeba (greetings to the new friendly zebra danio fish) and also gradually increased in number. We need to increase the amount of ammonia added per day so that the bacterium will say “there is food here, we produce food” and increase the numbers. We do not forget here that bacteria are slow to grow, we can reduce the bacterial colon population by decreasing the amount of 1 unit of ammonia that the colony can synthesize per day, so that we can poison the bacteria and fish. This increase; we are slowly making the number of fish, naturally increasing slightly, the amount of ammonia and nitrite measurements at this time. Here is a very nice product I use, seachem ammonia alert. It has a lifetime of 1 year, constantly measuring the ammonia in the water. Thanks a lot of fish helped. While the ammonia is at a safe level, the middle marker is yellow, as the photo below shows, and the yellow color turns yellow when ammonia is increased and gives you information. If the yellow color is blue, you stop feeding, in this process both the bacteria are increasing and the ammonia is decreasing. When the pointer is yellow, you continue to increase from where you are going to eat. When you catch the fish density and feed you want, and your marker is yellow, then your system has gone into sitting. I would also like to measure nitrite, but I do not measure nitrite as low as ammonia because ammonia and nitrite are similarly used when pH and temperature are between 7 and 25-27C, which most fish love, but unfortunately this is not the case in the first setup or after the biological system has collapsed due to chemicals such as drugs This does not apply to re-installation. In this period, a graph like the following appears:
During the first 6 days, ammonia rises, then the bacteria that consume ammonia begin to process and the ammonia is converted to nitrite, in this process the nitrite, which is naturally surrounded by ammonia, starts to rise and the nitrite is at the top level on the 13th day when ammonia is consumed. If we measure ammonia only on the 13th day, we do not think it works well, similarly, on the 6th day nitrite is 0 while ammonia is the highest. Finally the system was sitting on the 22nd day. Bacteria are well enough and without accumulation ammonia or nitrite is formed, which is converted to the next nitrogenous compound. The numbers of days in this chart and ammonia, nitrite, nitrate amounts vary according to many values such as number of fish, feed, amount of substrate, pH and temperature. The important thing is to understand the increasing trends of decrease, increase in ammonia, increase in nitrite measurement after its descent, decrease nitrite to 0 and see that the system is sitting at this point. If you do not measure nitrite, you can foresee the number of days when the ammonia is zero by multiplying by 2. For example ammonia starts to increase and then goes up on the 5th day and we say zero on the 10th day, we can not measure nitrite but we know that it is quite high, we can say that 10 is multiplied by two to find the 20th day and that nitrite is reset to zero. Of course, it is the right way to measure nitrite, but we do not always get every test, so we may need to make such predictions.
If you have Tanganyika, South America species that you look at high or low pH, what are the extreme water conditions I should pay attention to below? You read the part carefully.
It is possible to initiate a cycle by throwing bait without putting fish, but usually the presence of rotten fishes is not enough to turn the bait into amoeba in the absence of fish. In this process, you may encounter problems in the aquarium, such as white fungi on feeds, bad bacteria from an oxygen-free area. Adding liquid ammonia from the outside is also not a good idea because after a while phosphate in the water runs out and the process stops. Both bacterial cell structure and conversion processes require phosphate, so if pure ammonia is to be added, phosphate must be added. Instead, you can simply increase the number of zebra danio by 1-2 days.
We must avoid things that would kill bacteria to stop me from finding it late.
Cutting off the oxygen coming from the bacteria, chlorinated water, disinfectants, and most of the medicines, we smell the bacterial cycle that we are dealing with. Before putting water in the aquarium tap, either the water should be ventilated very well and the chlorine should be flown, or the water must be added before the water is added to the aquarium. Otherwise, the municipality will kill our chlorine, nitrogen bacteria, kill the bacteria in order to protect our health, and destroy the system. That’s the main part of the article. In the rest of this baseline, we will look at the issues and causes that many hobbies face.
Why did I lose healthy fish as a result of medication?
Most disinfectants and medicines have antibacterial properties and also kill nitrogen bacteria. For this reason, treatments should be made for fish in the quarantine aquarium, separating the fish, not the entire aquarium. It is very dangerous to feed the fish in the aquarium where the medicine is applied, since the ammonia that is produced can not be processed. If the treatment is 2-3 days, do not feed. Although it will take a long time, it is important to make frequent water changes and collect the unmeasured food.
Should I pull the junk off the bottom while cleaning the aquarium? Or should I focus on changing water? In aquarium cleanliness, it is not water, but water. Because ammonia is transferred not as feces, but as solute in the gill to the water. Collecting deposits provides visual cleaning.
Should I close the filter at night? What happens if electricity goes away?
The filter should always work, because the fish leave ammonia throughout the day, not just at home. You should also closely monitor the power cuts as you do not turn off the filter. It is said that the water coming from the external filter together with the electricity is cut off, but the oxygen in the filter falls to the level that the nitrogen bacteria can live within a few hours after the water volume and the bacterial population in the filtrate. If they wait for a while, they will start to bacterium without oxygen, they are very fast because they are hetotoros or consumers, and they attack bacteria corpses and other nutrients in the environment and produce hydrogen sulfide as a by-product. If the electricity oxygen level comes to a new level, you lose only the bacteria, you can save the work in a few days by adding culture, but if the electricity gets too high, hydrogen sulphide will form in the filter and the electricity will be mixed with water when it is late. It is useful to open and smell the filter at long intervals. If rotten egg odor Wash all the filter and set it all over.
Should I clean the filter?
Housekeeping is reserved. Mechanical, chemical and biological. The fiber is mechanically cleaned, retaining the water residue. That sediment is still water, so there is no biological cleaning, cleanliness is visible. Chemical filtration is carried out with materials that hold and / or exchange water chemistry such as activated carbon, purigen, resin. Biological filtration is done with the mentioned bacteria in this article. Substrate sponge and so on which performs biological filtration. materials in tap water, boiling water etc. not washed. The only reason we need to clean is to make the water access to the bacteria by clogging the substrate of the deposits. You put the material back in a bowl, empty the avalanche deposits on the aquarium water. As far east as they clean internal filters and pipe filters, they tighten the filter sponge in the aquarium, the aquarium gets pretty bad, after a couple of hours the bacteria go back to working sponges,
What are the extreme water conditions I should pay attention to?
Ammonia; temperature and pH are much more dangerous. The pH is lowered to the non-toxic ammonia. Apart from this behavior of ammonia, nitrification bacteria are also sensitive to temperature and pH. The optimum temperature range for them is 25-30 ° C, the nitrogen cycle below and above this range is decreasing. Degradation to 50% at 18 ° C stops at 4 ° C. Death occurs at 0 ° C. Nitrite is more affected by Nitrobacter cold than nitrate, so nitrite accumulation can be observed in cold systems. The ideal pH for ammonia-consuming nitrosomonas is in the range of 7.8-8.0 and for nitrite-consuming Nitrobacter is in the range of 7.3-7.5. Neutral and slightly basic pH provides a good environment. As the water becomes acidic, the consumption and consumption of nitrites after consuming ammonia first decreases. The higher the pH, the lower the consumption of nitrites, then the consumption of ammonia-consuming bacteria. For this reason, nitrite accumulation may occur in high pH tanganyika aquariums. Nitrite should be controlled with ammonia, but at high pH, nitrite is not as toxic as at low pH. At high pH, ammonia has a much more toxic effect. At low pH, ammonia is converted to ammonia because it is a weak base, ammonium is not toxic, but with a sudden pH rise it quickly returns to amoeba and causes worms. If the pH is below 7, nitrite must be carefully monitored because, unlike ammonia, nitrite is in the form of nitric acid at low pH and is more toxic and at high pH it is nitrite ion. In addition to water change in sudden nitrite elevations, methylene blue can be used. Methylene blue prevents nitrite poisoning, releasing hemoglobin in the blood. Long-term poisoning can be used in living fish in a hive, but if used in an aquarium it harms plants and bacteria. It should be used as the last option in the aquarium.
In some sources, nitrogen bacterial activity is stopped at a pH below 6, and in some sources, pH is thought to be the result of many bacteria being killed, while others are being re-adated to that pH. In the absence of bacteria, the nitrogen compounds in the water, except for the nitrogen bacteria; plants and water exchange. Seachem does not provide ammonia alert because it is not just ammonia, but because it measures only ammonia. Ammonium and ammonia are in equilibrium. For example, there are 50 units of ammonia at low pH and 10 units of ammonia. When ammonia is used, some of the ammonia is converted back to ammonia and constantly maintains this equilibrium at the same temperature and pH (5 equiv.
What should I do if the water is cloudy?
Look at America, wait if it is low. If there is no definite clearance after 4 days, pay attention to the bacteria holding capacity of the filter, make 50% water change and add bacteria culture. If you leave the meat in the country, there is a living place. Which living beings or creatures this living thing will have depends on the amount of living things in the medium, the power, the liking and disliking that food, and how fast it can consume. That’s the case with the aquarium. If you leave a food that can be used by living things in the environment, it will come and live. If there is free floating ammonia in the aquarium and the bacterial cycle is seated, this ammonia is used by substrat bacteria. If there are more nutrients than subspecific bacteria can use, this time the bacteria will start to replicate in the off-substrate environment. Not only bacteria but also algae use ammonium. That’s why if your aquarium’s water is cloudy, there is a wrong or incomplete filtration. Moreover, closing this gap alone may not be enough to fix the problem. At the beginning, our bacteria would not let the algae and other bacteriums recede if they were seated, but they could not get their hands to the bearded hands at the beginning of their work and the ropes are now free-floating organisms. At this point we need to change the water in order to reduce the amount of free floating while strengthening the filter. In this period, only the water change, the problem only helps high phosphate, ammonia or nitrate, the problem is not resolved if the biological cycle is not supported by increasing bacteria and / or substrate. After you intervene to correct the situation, wait 4 days without intervention again. If there is no noticeable improvement in 4 days, you need to sit back in the account and check the filtration. I have repeatedly repeated the bacterial-based white, algae-based green water haze in the same way.
The green water discus pressed my aquarium.
When you put newspapers in front of the light and weakened, the algae lost their energy source and died. When they died, unfortunately the place did not get clear because the system did not sit down. Bacterial cultures remained and I did not get the risk of getting parasites from other aquariums because I had to throw new parasites into discus and solve their problems. (In the meantime, Praziquantel-containing parasite does not harm the bactericide, but it does not kill any type of bacteria)
I finally added a bacterium culture, clarified after 3 days.
And discus pups are happy
What about nitrate?
I use 3 methods to get the nitrate water. First and most used water exchange. Water exchange is a very necessary thing. Many elements and compounds end up or accumulate in the aquarium water over time. Both usually lead to poor results. For this reason, we should not neglect to change water even though we have good filtration. The second method is the plant method. The plants use nitrate but not activated carbon treatment. The plants are not in the place they stop, but they grow nitrate and phosphate when they grow new leaf. For this reason, it should not be forgotten that fertilizers and lighting that grows plants should not be forgotten, huge aquariums, 2-3 growing plants like slow growing anubias, and they take nitrate in significant amounts. My last method is bacteria. Ammonium nitrite was the manufacturer of nitrites and nitrites. Nitrate-consuming bacteria are a consumer bacterium and are very rapid. These bacteria use nutrients not as a source of nitrification but as nutrients, the nutrients that they consume must be supplied externally. It uses nitrite rather than oxygen when it burns nutrients. Because oxygen is used to burn food in oxygen environments, it will not benefit, so an oxygen-free environment must be provided in the filter. There must be oxygen-free environments where the water flows slowly through the filter or the aquarium. The less the oxygen free environment, the lower the rate of nitrate reduction. Seachem Matrix de Sera Siporax also says that its products provide an oxygen-free environment, even though there is a strong discharge outside, oxygen-free bacteria can be accommodated by the aerobic bacteria that exterminate the oxygen and the weakness inside. In the past, the aquariums were spilling alcohol (especially vodka) to provide nutrients to these bacteria, but this risky work was not needed, the product of ReefLowers bacteria feeder or glycerol could be used. I think the product is made up of glycerol. There are things to watch out for. The first one is nitrate or fosfaten one, add how much of this nut add up, the ending value does not fall. So, for example, say that the phosphate is over, add phosphate fertilizer, increase the phosphite slightly and use this product and continue to lower the nitrate. For this reason, both nitrate and phosphate should be continuously measured. After a point you know your aquarium, you know how long it takes to finish and you intervene without measuring it. Of course, re-measurements should be initiated in the case of adding or removing fish or changing the used fish.
Is not it unreasonable to build an aquarium by taking 2-3 fish a day?
Illogical. That’s right, but I do not. Actually, that’s what I’m doing. Let’s say in the aquarium; second day 2, third day 4, fifth day 10, seventh day 20 fish. I will look at 20 fish in total. I bring 20 fish on the 2nd or 3rd day of the setup. I do not feed for the first 2 days. they have already eaten food from where they came from and are already releasing ammonia in the water. On the 3rd and the 4th day I eat as if I have 2 fish instead of 20 fish, then I have 4 fish, I say that I have 8 fish 2 times last 2 times a day. I return to the normal condition as they can finish in. In this process, the observation is constantly on the ammonia alert. Ammonia does not rise unless you feed. After the animals digest it, they start to rise and then half an hour after they feed it, there is no ammonia. Raise the gear slowly. Pisces are uncompensated, weak or offspring, but have formulas; young and middle-aged fishes can easily tolerate hunger for 6-7 days. As a result, we can not compare cold-blooded creatures with ourselves.
Should I use materials that absorb or destroy ammonia?
Zeolite ammonia absorbs but becomes dysfunctional in 2 weeks. It is not kept on a regular basis, it is kept as an emergency action plan, it can be activated and recovered from sudden ammonia explosions. There are also products like Reeflowers Remammonia and Seachem Prime.
Do we have to use a filter?
Not. The goal is to keep nitrite and nitrite low in ammonia. If you can make intensive water changes every day, you do not need to be able to keep the amolar safe level between changes. You admit that such applications are extreme applications, so if you look at a classic aquarium you need filtration. Aquariums with abundant producers (plant & algae) can handle without filters. Already the sand and decode bacteria will cling to nature there is no filter but the amount of fish falling in square meters in nature is very different in the aquarium. We are looking at a fish that is much heavier than it is native. If you feed 10 guppies in 1 ton of water, a motor that produces a light stream is enough, enough bacteria in the sand, but it is not reasonable to look at the 5 cm of 5 cm fish that we put in 100 liters with weekly water changes without filter.
Does the mussel clean the water?
Mussel is not a producer, such as plants or oxygenated nitrogen bacteria. Your aquarium is a consumer like stingray and shrimp. Does the stingray clean the aquarium? The cleanser makes it visually better, but does so by consuming it, and eventually becomes an aquarius burden like other fish. Shrimps also help to accelerate the conversion of nitrogen by cleaning up the bottom debris, preventing possible odors. The mussel is fixed in one place, unlike the shrimps chasing the pieces, and is now fed from the nutrients in the current flowing through it. In a scientific study, it is said that nitrate production by midyear has increased by 6% in a mid-aquarium. On the other hand, you can observe a very rapid ammonia rise in your aquarium if you do not notice the death because of the stinking too quickly. Feeding the mussel for filtering is not reasonable, it is more favorable to feed the midyeyi by providing the proper water temperature, pH and planktonic feeds such as snails, shrimp or fish, in order to increase the vigorousness of the living which contributes to the aquarium.