Again and again in the blog comments questions arise around the establishment of an aquarium for fighting fishes. Actually, a clear indication that there seems to be a lot of need for clarification here and that one or the other reader would be happy about tips for a perfect fighting fish aquarium. That’s why I put together 11 tips for the perfect fighting fish aquarium in this post. With it you can go and set up your fighting fish aquarium – so that your Betta should not miss anything.
11 tips for your fighting fish aquarium
The most important point for a perfect fighting fish aquarium is of course the aquarium itself. Here you will find a wide range of offers in almost every size. But which one are you supposed to take? Basically, it’s pretty simple: Make sure your aquarium has at least 25 – 30 liters. Besides, it should of course be (four-) angular. Please keep your fingers off of deco glasses and Co. But you can very well fall back on various nano aquarium sets. Nano Pool with 30 liters are already relatively inexpensive in the set with ground, lamp and cover. As fighting fishes (Betta Splendens breed form) are rather solitary, you can, for example, hold a male very well in an aquarium with 25-30 liters. But you should refrain from fishing here. Snails are not a problem. I would also advise against shrimp. The ends in most cases as expensive live food.
It is also important that you pay attention to the fact that with your set a cover disk is there. Fighting fishes are quite good jumpers and can jump out of the pool by one sentence. With a cover disc you prevent that. In addition, a disc is useful to warm the air between the disc and the water surface a bit. Your fighting fish are atmospheric breathers and should not necessarily breathe direct cold indoor air.
This point actually belongs to the basic knowledge of general aquaristics. The location for an aquarium – and it usually does not matter what size it has or what it is to be home – you should choose carefully. Think carefully about where you put the aquarium. Because when it is first filled and it will be hard to change it “times even”. But this is not the only factor, of course. Likewise, avoid the following: Do not put it near the window. In the case of nano-aquariums, the incoming sun – especially during the noon hours – can cause the water to heat uncontrollably or algae to form. If, on the other hand, the aquarium gets its morning sunshine for a few minutes in the morning, that’s not a big deal.
So look where your pelvis should stand, and watch for a few days how the light is in the place. The uncontrolled heating of an aquarium can also be caused by the proximity to a radiator. That’s why you should avoid that too. Even behind a door is not a good place for a fighting fish aquarium. Why am I not going to have to explain now?
If it were: door – doorknob – door open – aquarium – glass – broken – bad!
Unfavorable are also places, where a lot of “through traffic” is and often people in front of the aquarium run back and forth. This can stress your Betta unnecessarily. And please, if you have children in the household, tell them not to knock on the washer of the aquarium. This also applies to guests. For comparison, I used to get big headphones when I was a kid, and my dad knocked on it with his fingers. That should show me how it sounds to the fish. With success. To this day I avoid this nonsensical tapping.
03 ground floor
Now that your fighting fish aquarium has found a suitable location, it goes to set up. Everything is basically open to you here. You should just keep your fingers off bright or colorful ground. Hell, because your fighting fish generally likes it a bit darker and the radiant light from the light ground is a stress factor. And you should refrain from colorful because … no, let’s start differently: An aquarium basically reflects the habitat of your fish. So it’s a piece of nature. And honestly. How many times have you found pink, yellow or blue gravel in a stream bed in the middle of a forest? Aquariums are more beautiful with natural colors. There are very nice grape varieties that are not that bright. Just look for river gravel or similar. Of course, go brownish kieses or black. If you want to do something good for your plants in the aquarium, it would be a good idea to introduce Soil into the soil. It contains some important and beneficial nutrients that benefit plant growth.
Of course you CAN do without a filter. This means for you every week a water change of about 70% of your aquarium water. Do you really want to take that as a beginner (I’m assuming you’re one)? Use as a beginner rather a small internal filter. I still swear by the corner filter from Dennerle for aquarium up to 30L. This is small, quiet, reliable and very important: adjustable. Because you should pay attention. Because your fighting fish does not like current. If we now assume that you also use the Dennerle filter, then you can regulate the flow on a thumbwheel here.
In addition to the filter there is a outflow which I turn always direction aquarium disc to further break the flow. With air lift filters, I have personally made no good experience and would therefore advise against using such filters. Of course you will find on the internet also a lot of advocates for these filters. But as I said: The renunciation is my own, very personal opinion. And I have already explained this before in an article.
A heater? Yes, but yes. The ideal temperature for fighting fish is 24 degrees. Fewer (below 20 degrees) will cause your fighting fish to barely move. Just because he is cold. More can lead to a faster aging of the fish. 24 degrees, however, have turned out to be ideal, according to various experts. In breeding, however, other temperatures are considered ideal. But it’s not about breeding here. Well, how you reach the 24 degrees, should be clear. Of course, with a suitable heating rod. With an aquarium of 30l, you usually have a 25 watt heating rod. These are often included in the beginner sets already mentioned. Check the size of your set before buying and see exactly what you may need to add.
In addition to a filter and a heater, of course, the light is an important issue. Above all, you should pay attention to the right light in the aquarium for your plants. If you buy a nano set, but there is usually a lamp included which should then be sufficient for the aquarium size. My tip: Pay attention if necessary that you get an LED lamp. These not only last longer than fluorescent tubes, but also save money thanks to lower power consumption and will sooner or later replace – as I see it – the fluorescent tubes in aquaristics.
Aquarium decoration. Like gravel, this has probably been a matter of taste since the discovery of kitsch and sometimes leads to long discussions. Again, I stick to my opinion: rely on nature. So (real stones and (real) wood) However, you should not randomly throw something from the next forest in the basin, but buy special decoration in the pet shop, but please keep please, please distance from colorful plastic decoration, glass balls (just in the US very obtuse decoration Woods and stones Yes, I have already said.When decorating your fighting fish aquarium, please make sure that stones and wood are placed in the tank so that It can not only turn into a death trap for your Betta, it can also really catch your eye, for example when a stone tilts and hits your aquarium.
Plants necessarily belong in a perfect fighting fish aquarium. Of course, to perfect your species tank, you can of course look out for Asian plants. For example, I like to use Vallisneria. They grow quickly, cover the water surface and are easy to cut. Basically ideal for a start. But other fast growing plants are good for your fighting fish aquarium. Because your fighting fish may “weed” it. You can also use floating plants in the fighting fish aquarium to darken the pelvis a bit. But also make sure that you take into account the requirements of the selected plants. After all, you want something from them, right? Oh. And please do not let marsh plants bob up. There are sellers in zoo shops who like to turn on beautiful, small plants that want to be optimal in the foreground. Most of these have red-green or white-green leaves and are very noticeable with their thick leaves. These are marsh plants that do not grow old in your aquarium. Invest the money in other beautiful plants.
09 water purifier
Now you should have set up your aquarium so far. What happens now? Many retailers advise you at this point to the most interesting – chemical – products to use your aquarium almost immediately. But do not let me fool you. Give up water purifier. The only thing I use now and again is Aquasafe to bind heavy metals in the water. That was it, too. Everything else does not come to my aquarium. Neither starter bacteria nor other additives. Just give your aquarium about 4 weeks run-in time (next item) to make bacteria that keep the aquatic flora in order.
10 break-in period
New aquariums need a certain amount of time to form the necessary bacteria for the aquatic flora in the soil and in the filter. Please give this time to your fighting fish aquarium. The break-in period is usually about 4 weeks. You can monitor the development of your water with the help of water tests. More about that right now. Generally you have in the first weeks again and again fluctuations in your water values …
11 water tests
… for example, PH and nitrite levels can vary widely. Your aquarium water is just developing into a habitat for important bacteria that keep these values in the fence. Regular water changes and monitoring with water tests help you to check this development. As with almost everything in the hunting there are also in the water tests different approaches. From test strips to high-end test equipment, you can basically do everything your purse can afford.
However, I have taken on so-called droplet tests and use them to check every now and then for the values. But thanks to excellent tap water, I rarely have problems and can therefore restrict myself to checking the water values only in the case of problems. No matter. droplets tests. These work quite reliably and can be obtained in every specialized market. Not so good experiences I have made with the test sticks. By running or blurring, results were often falsified. This can not happen to you in droplets tests.
Yes, that’s basically it. Of course, I could have done one or the other point even further, but then we would never have come to an end here. So many things – such as plants, substrate, decoration or the start-up phase are topics that you can look at in separate articles in more detail. And I think I will do that, too. For starters, this list should give you a good start.
Here again a short “shopping list”
- Aquarium min. 25-30l (possibly set with heater and Co.)
- Heating (available as a set?)
- Light (LED / available in set?)
- Cover (in the set?)
- Ground (dark gravel)
- Decoration (Not necessary but if then wood and stones)
- Food (here are some tips for food)
- Water Treatment
- Water Tests